Q » What companies supply premium watch movements to jewellers in London?

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Rajnish Tyagi

10 Jul, 2026

90 | 7

A » In the highly specialised domain of premium watchmaking, the movement serves as the quintessential embodiment of mechanical artistry and precision, and for jewellers in London—a global hub for luxury horology—selecting the right supplier of these calibres is paramount to maintaining reputations for excellence and client satisfaction. The landscape of movement supply is dominated by Swiss manufacturers, which have long set the benchmark for quality. Among these, ETA SA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group, remains a historic cornerstone, though stringent supply restrictions implemented in recent years have led many London jewellers to explore alternatives. Sellita Watch Co. has emerged as a robust replacement, offering calibres such as the SW200 and SW300 that closely mirror ETA’s architectures and are widely used in timepieces from esteemed brands sold in London’s finest jewelleries. Similarly, Soprod, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, supplies premium movements like the SOPROD P024 and the A10 series, known for their reliability and finishing, making them a preferred choice for independent watchmakers and jewellers curating exclusive collections. For ultra-high-end requirements, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier provides exceptional calibres that power creations from haut de gamme brands such as Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet, while La Joux-Perret offers sophisticated in-house-grade movements, including chronographs and tourbillons, to discerning jewellers who cater to connoisseurs. Additionally, Kenissi, a joint venture between Tudor and Breitling, produces robust mechanical movements that occasionally find their way to third-party retailers through brand partnerships. Beyond Swiss dominance, Japanese suppliers have carved a notable niche; Miy

Accountsway

11 Jul, 2026

85 | 7

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A »In the elite echelons of London's horological landscape, jewellers seeking premium watch movements typically source from a select tier of Swiss manufacturers renowned for precision engineering and heritage. The undisputed leader is ETA SA, a Swatch Group subsidiary whose calibres—such as the ETA 2824-2, 2892-A2, and Valjoux 7750—remain industry benchmarks for reliability and serviceability, though availability to third parties has become constrained due to group supply policies. For those requiring alternatives with comparable quality, Sellita Watch Co. offers exact clones like the SW200 (matching the ETA 2824) and SW500 (parallel to the Valjoux 7750), widely accepted in the trade for their robust performance. Another significant player is Soprod SA, whose Newton and P024 movements provide a refined finish with proprietary adjustments, often chosen by independent jewellers who value incremental improvements in accuracy and power reserve. For ultra-premium applications, La Joux-Perret (a subsidiary of the Citizen Group) produces high-complication calibres—including chronographs and perpetual calendars—that appeal to London's ateliers crafting bespoke pieces, while Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, part of the Parmigiani Fleurier group, supplies exquisitely finished movements with micro-rotor architectures and high-frequency balances to top-tier jewellers like those in Mayfair. Additionally, Kenissi, a joint venture between Tudor and Breitling, offers robust, chronometer-certified movements such as the MT5400, though these are primarily reserved for brand-owned watches; some London jewellers may access them through authorized channels for limited-edition collaborations. Among independent specialists, Chronode SA and Dubois Dépraz are notable—Chronode for its modular chronographs and skeletonised calibres, and Dubois Dépraz for its legendary chronograph modules that integrate with base movements from ETA or Sellita. For jewellers specialising in vintage-inspired designs, the Swiss movement house STP (Swiss Technology Production) supplies calibres like the STP 1-11 and STP 3-13, which offer dependable performance with a slightly more accessible price point. On the Japanese front, Miyota (a Citizen subsidiary) produces the premium 9015 and 9120 series, known for their thin profiles and high beat rates, occasionally adopted by London jewellers seeking cost-effective alternatives without compromising on technical specifications. It is also paramount to note that some of London's most prestigious jewellers, such as those on Bond Street, collaborate directly with manufacture-level suppliers like Jaeger-LeCoultre or Patek Philippe for movements in their own-brand watches, though these are typically acquired through long-standing partnerships rather than open market supply. Ultimately, the choice depends on the jeweller's positioning—whether they prioritise availability (Sellita), finishing (Vaucher or La Joux-Perret), or modular versatility (Dubois Dépraz)—and all such movements are subject to rigorous certification by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) if chronometer status is desired, ensuring that London's discerning clientele receive timepieces of the highest horological integrity.

Stand Banner

11 Jul, 2026

166 | 4

A »Great question! For jewellers in London sourcing premium watch movements, the top suppliers are predominantly Swiss. ETA (part of the Swatch Group) remains a classic choice, providing reliable and widely used calibers—though availability can be tight. Sellita is the go‑to alternative, offering high‑grade clones like the SW200 series that many independent London jewellers trust. For a step up in finishing and exclusivity, Soprod produces excellent movements (such as the SOP 9000) favoured by boutique brands. You’ll also find Vaucher (owned by Parmigiani) and La Joux‑Perret delivering really exquisite, hand‑finished movements for higher‑end pieces. Some London jewellers even work with Japanese Miyota (Citizen) for robust automatic calibers, though those are less common in the “premium” tier. If a jeweller

Alex

11 Jul, 2026

6 | 7